A Quiet Anti-Fashion Statemenet

For the Stockholm-based label’s new capsule, creative director Christopher Nying and co-founder Jockum Hallin set out to create clothing that would allow the wearer to smoothly transition from quarantine attire to something more chic, whilst still remaining comfortable. They achieved this by taking inspiration from what Nying describes to Vogue as “a delicate form of sportswear” that, despite its technical robustness, looks fragile. This is a common theme that Our Legacy stands by. The recontextualization of inspiration by meshing together clothing from different eras - 70s punk and western fashion as well as 90s grunge to name a few - to create something that fits within anti-fashion in an understated manner. 

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With sustainability in mind, it came as no surprise that Our Legacy kept their online lookbook and street-photography format for their new collection, aligning with their aim to veer away from being a fashion brand and focusing more on the garments themselves. The pandemic had led the independent brand to change their usual manufacturing process by reusing remaining fabrics 

from previous seasons as well as digitally distressing and fading their denim to save on water consumption. 

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In typical Our Legacy fashion, the duo stuck to their earthy and monochromatic colour palette whilst expanding on the different hues of red that were introduced in Fall/Winter 2021 through new shades of mauve and crimson. Silhouettes also stay true to the boxy and oversized cuts they are known for. 

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However, this season, they have chosen to use the flowy nature of the newly constructed nylon and cotton fabrics to allow for slightly drapier shapes compared to previous collections. These new fabrics put practicality at the forefront with added comfort without the extra weight or bulk for those who aren’t ready to leave sportswear chic behind just yet. 

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Back by popular demand are the “Extended Third Cut Jeans” and “Camion Mules” but this time with an added butterfly motif; what seems like a questionable twist in a collection centred around wearability. 

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Nevertheless, the styling by Frederik Petterson is on-point, as usual, with this collection as it effortlessly flaunts the versatility of the individual items and all the layering possibilities that can be experimented with when putting all of the season’s offerings together. The play on proportions and textures refute anyone that calls the clothes “boring” or “plain” with how the garments compliment the models, sitting at the sweet spot between minimalism and mundane. It further reiterates the brand’s conservative yet provocative approach on garment-making for it to be a long-term staple in one’s wardrobe 

The fitting title for the collection, “Deja Vu'', lends itself well to the collection’s key design element of re-imagining traditional silhouettes like the leather biker jacket or simple cargo shorts by using fragments of a M51 military jacket. The military reference is also significant to the collection’s response to the pandemic, Nying alluding to the emotion of walking through an empty city during quarantine as very “after-war”. 

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In a 2018 Vogue interview, Hallin described Our Legacy’s approach to fashion as “taking the legacy of other generations and adapting it to our times and our lives” and after 16 years, this statement still stands. The endless references in this collection come together to create a capsule that sits in the grey area of anti-fashion. It straddles the line by being unconventional in fabric selection or composition yet somehow satisfying contemporary trends through silhouette and styling. Perfect for the lazy man who’s not willing to compromise on rebellious style or cosy comfort.