Gorpcore for Rockstars

Originally a term coined in 2017 by Jason Chen, a journalist for The Cut, gorpcore has become a cultural phenomenon in the past two years. A play on the colloquial term for trail mix (“Good Ol’ Raisins and Peanuts”), this new yet essential fashion moniker refers to a style centred around functionality, modularity and outdoor-wear. Brands in this category range from Arc’teryx shell jackets to vintage Nike ACG to even Salomon trail sneakers that have been seen at fashion weeks and runways worldwide. Relating the “camping-chic” aesthetic with Jun Takahashi’s Undercover does seem like a bit of a stretch, especially when most of his references are punk fashion and rock music. However, there are definitely elements within this recent trend that align with concepts the Japanese designer has toyed with in his collections. 

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As one of the main kingpins of the Ura Hara movement, it’s no secret that Takahashi embodied the chaotic nature of the golden 90s era in Tokyo with his affinity for punk music and culture icons such as Vivienne Westwood and the Sex Pistols. Although this served as inspiration for when he created Undercover in 1990 (whilst still being a student at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo), his multi-dimensional approach created a new threshold for what punk fashion could become when it was intertwined with technical streetwear. 

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Modularity is a big aspect in gorpcore that can be seen in many of the popular pieces today, most notably vintage Nike ACG jackets such as the 2in1 Anatomy Technical Ventilated Jacket. This piece not only has an abundance of pockets and compartments for functionality purposes but is constructed out of two separate layers that can be unzipped to be worn separately depending on the climate. The inner mesh layer can also be unzipped at the shoulders to transform from a cardigan-like piece into a vest for added customisation. A similar concept can be seen Undercover’s AW 98/99 collection titled “Exchange” where any part of the garment such as the collars, hem and sleeves are interchangeable with other garments within the collection. This theme allows for complete customisation of the silhouette, texture and functionality of either the chosen garment or two different items where the detachable pieces can be exchanged to create endless hybrid garments. 

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Reversible design is a feature often seen in outdoor gear, especially with nylon fleece jackets that can be turned inside out depending on whether the priority is comfort and warmth or staying dry in wet conditions. The execution in this case is relatively simple, the silhouette staying constant whilst differing materials are stitched to each other but Takahashi decided to take it leaps further for AW99/00’s “AMBIVALENCE”. In order to evoke the ambivalent mental state one may experience when harbouring two conflicting emotions, he chose to give each garment two completely different looks that transformed in silhouette and layering when flipped inside out. It’s almost unpalatable to think that a leather jacket and skirt ensemble can be transformed into a rock t-shirt layered over a striped longsleeve and a white skirt just by turning it inside out. This just goes to show how revolutionary of a pattern cutter he is, reconstructing what could be seen as a design gimmick into something so tasteful and dynamic. 

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In order to keep warm in harsher conditions, layering is crucial in the gorpcore aesthetic just like in most other sub genres of fashion, with the exception of minimalism. Layering is a lot more functional in gorpcore and many brands design items with the idea that it should be worn together in a system. An example would be The North Face Summit Series line where everything from the base t-shirt to the fleece to the shell jacket are made to be stacked on top of eachother. 

What Takahashi has done is try to bring layering into the hotter months without actually layering. This is the concept for his SS01 collection titled “INTERLOCKING PANELS” where he takes cues from the “trompe l’oeil” technique to make a single garment look like it has numerous layers. Jackets appear to be layered over a shirt, belt loops and collars are in their usual places but yet they are embedded into an even flat surface. 

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A crucial part of gorpcore is fabric choice. Whether it’s a breathable mesh that keeps you cool in warmer weather or something like GORE-TEX that beads water off in wet climates, fabrics play a huge role in the functional and utilitarian aspect of the aesthetic that make it so desired. The closest interpretation of Takahashi’s take on gorpcore comes from AW07’s “untitled” where he emphasises the use of high performance materials in a feminine, chic manner to create a collection that’s made for urban life - much like how gorpcore is consumed nowadays. Silhouettes are athleisure-inspired, fused together with elegant knits and the clothes are made to maintain a comfortable internal temperature by absorbing heat as temperatures rise and releasing heat as it cools. 

 

It’s hard to think that the anarchic, punk-influenced Undercover shares some attributes with a trend associated with hiking and feeling at one with nature. Aesthetically, they stand on opposite ends of the spectrum. But somewhere in that grey area lies a similarity in ideologies, the idea that clothing can be multi-functional yet still please their respective demographic’s preferred styles and attitude. Jun Takahashi pushed the boundaries of how far punk streetwear could be taken in different avenues and gorpcore’s utilitarian attribute just happened to be one of them.