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The “Mulement” Shuffles Forward

Is the new backbone of footwear backless? 

During lockdown, when sweatpants were as smart as it got for a casual stroll around the neighbourhood, nothing seemed to blend effortless swagger with orthopaedic comfort like the mule. People were sceptical at first and for good reason - who would’ve thought that your aunt and uncle’s holiday shoes would become a must-have? However, the open-back design made it a perfect “lazy day” shoe that you could slip on and off and the closed-toe insured that a pedicure could be an afterthought. It was an exciting rediscovery of the backless shoe for the menswear community after Gucci’s fur-lined Princetown mules’ moment back in 2015. 

 

Fast forward to now, a time where leaving the house is slowly becoming a normality again, mules still seem to be the answer. Not everyone’s rushing out of quarantine to make up for lost time in their pre-pandemic footwear, some still can’t seem to completely let go of the cosy chic they had become accustomed to. Take a look at Kanye West, for example, who was pictured dressing up mules with a blazer and suit trousers, or Kendall Jenner and Ashley Olsen, who have taken a more casual approach by pairing them with denim jeans. 

 

Even in a wide spectrum of styles, the mules continued to succeed in complementing any outfit that’s been thrown at them. They make getting dressed that much simpler, not only because of how easy it is to slide on but because of how safe you feel knowing that the trusty, versatile silhouette is ready to pair with almost anything. Going socked or sockless provides even more choice on how casual or formal you may want the whole ensemble to look. 

 

With the resurgence of Birkenstock Boston and Crocs (early adopters of the trend), other brands have noticed the power in going backless and have since hopped onto the “mulement” - a term dubbed by @muleboyz on Instagram. Reebok’s Beatnik has enjoyed a rise in popularity recently thanks to the Gorpcore trend that it seamlessly fits into and Crocs have just collaborated with footwear designer Salehe Bembury for his futuristic take on the classic silhouette. Luxury takes on mules are also far from scarce with Balenciaga’s Track Mules that chop the heel off their infamous Track sneaker and Marni’s “Grinch” Mohair Sabot that offer a vibrant pop of colour and texture. 

 

“I really like the silhouette of military boots and loafers but I don’t like the idea of putting them on,” said Tommy Tsuyoshita, founder and creative director of his up-and-coming Japanese brand SimplyComplicated. He used this as inspiration to make his very own “Lug Mule” which he sees as a more wearable footwear alternative that doesn’t come with the hassle of tying up long laces or rock-hard outsoles. “I personally don't wear loafers or any kind of formal shoes so I mixed the Birkenstock vibe with a vintage military boot vibe to create my mule - (vintage military boots) don’t have the thick lug sole which I prefer.” Made using Japanese cowhide that will only get softer with time and a Vibram Command outsole that is not only comfortable but durable, what he ended up with was an inoffensive mule that was “not too casual and not too formal” for ultimate versatility in almost all occasions. 

 

Lacking in heel support, you’ve got to simply shuffle along when wearing mules. They’re not a shoe to run around the city in but one to just relax in, taking things slow and enjoying the luxury of comfort without compromising in aesthetics. It may seem like a pandemic-induced trend that will lose its appeal as we become more reaccustomed to normal living but Tsuyoshita disagrees. “I think in the future, it will go past being a trend and become an essential and a normal thing for everyone, it’s too wearable not to.” Wherever you stand in this conversation, the initial acceptance of mules is a testament to how much the menswear community has evolved in the past decade; no longer limiting themselves from a silhouette that was previously seen as “feminine.” The recent unveiling of Dior’s collaboration with Birkenstock for Fall/Winter 2022 is just another indicator that the “mulement” will keep on shuffling forward. 

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